Away Days — Paris

Play football: Buttes Chaumont or Colonel Fabian
Watch football: 9b, Cork & Cavan
Eat: Le Bar Fleuri, Le Cornichon, La Fontaine
Drink: Centre Culturel
Visit: Magnum Gallery

I moved to Paris in September 2021, though that wasn’t the original plan. Like so many things during the pandemic, my intention to move to New York was quietly derailed. At the time, it felt like a setback. But looking back, I’m glad things didn’t go to plan. Paris has given me more than I expected—a great community, new friendships, and a sense of belonging.

I live in Belleville, nestled in the 19th arrondissement of Paris. It’s a vibrant neighbourhood known for its charm and character. The area buzzes with life, offering a rich mix of cultures, and an ever-growing selection of bars and restaurants. Its elevated position provides sweeping views of the city, while its proximity to two major green spaces—Parc des Buttes-Chaumont and Parc de Belleville—offers residents a natural escape.

In the 19th arrondissement where I live, there’s no shortage of five-a-side pitches. Whether at the Parc or on the street pitch just down from Colonel Fabien metro, most evenings, you’ll find people from all over gathered around the edges, waiting for a game to wrap up so they can jump in.

These weekly games - sometimes chaotic, always competitive - helped build a sense of belonging. There is a group of us now who have become great friends, a real mix of nationalities, Scots, Irish, South African, Argentinian. Weekends are our main gathering point: we meet up before any of the big games kick off, and with a group that includes Celtic fans, Arsenal fans, Boca Juniors die-hards, there is always plenty of friendly debate. We usually head towards the canal to hang out, grab a bite at one of the old French brasseries nearby, and settle into a bar early enough to get a good seat.

Where to play

Buttes Chaumont is one of Paris's most vibrant parks, especially at this time of year. The park itself is packed with people sunbathing, picnicking, playing music, and enjoying the warm weather — and there’s always space for a casual game of keepie-uppies or a mini kickabout on the grass.

If you're looking for something a bit more structured, take a short 10-minute walk from Belleville towards Colonel Fabien. Here you'll find two great five-a-side football pitches — one nestled between apartment blocks and the other just across from the canal, above Jaurès metro. There's usually no booking system; it's first-come, first-play, and the atmosphere is friendly, fast-paced, and fun.

Where to eat

Le Bar Fleuri doesn’t try to be trendy and that’s precisely its charm. Weathered wooden chairs, lace-trimmed curtains, and handwritten chalkboard menu – it’s a neighbourhood haunt where nothing’s changed in years not even the price of its signature dish. The Poulet Frites is famously priced at 6.86 francs. Come by at lunchtime and you’ll see the place at its best: locals chatting over glasses of wine, solo diners flipping through newspapers, and the occasional off-duty chef or artist savouring their break. The terrace is especially lovely on a sunny day.

If you’re craving more of the classic bistro experience, head just below the 19th arrondissement to the 10th and check out Le Cornichon, and La Fontaine.

Where to grab a coffee

In the 10th arrondissement, Ten Belles is perfect for sitting outside in the sun and savouring a perfectly brewed espresso. And if you’re in the mood for something sweet, head across the street to JJ Hings, Ten Belles' sister shop, where they serve amazing homemade ice cream. It’s a great way to enjoy the neighbourhood. Other good coffee spots to hit up nearby are NOA, Dreamin Man & Bonjour Jacob.

Where to drink

Centre Culturel is a recently opened natural wine bar nestled between the Belleville and Colonel Fabien metro stations. The bar also serves up fresh pizzas in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. More than just a place to drink, it doubles as a creative hub, regularly hosting events ranging from live concerts to photography exhibitions.

Other great bars in the area include La Fontaine & 9b, a lively PSG fan spot on the boulevard with a spacious terrace and well-priced beers.

Where to watch football

My go-to is a charming little Irish bar called the Cork & Cavan, tucked right down on the Canal. It’s a cosy spot with a laid-back vibe, and the bartenders are always quick to help get the match you want on screen. During spring and summer, it really comes alive—grab a drink on the terrace in the sunshine or take it across the road to sit right by the water.

Other great spots to catch the football include 9b and Rush Bar.

What to visit

Every Sunday, Paris hosts large vintage markets that rotate locations weekly—so be sure to check where they'll pop up next. If you're catching a game that day, the markets near République or Arts et Métiers are great.

Magnum Gallery, located in the 11th arrondissement, is a must-see for photography lovers. Each month, Magnum curates an exhibition from one of their photographers' remarkable archives, showcasing some of the finest photojournalism and street photography in the world.