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City Guide: Rio

Luana Viegas is a Photographer and Creative Director who runs a boutique agency between Brazil, France and the UK. But in her own city she treats Rio the way it asks to be treated: outdoors, in the street, nothing planned. A Flamengo fan by inheritance (“no choice whatsoever”). Rio, she says, is fever – in the best way.

City Guide: Rio
What’s the rhythm of a day here?

People in Rio are always in the streets — daytime, the beach, bars, surfing, street markets, rarely a plan behind any of it. I’ll go out, and if something remindsme of someone I’ll text them and see if they’re about. It works better than any agenda — even though cariocas always bail at the last minute, lol.

The team you support and why?

Flamengo, I inherited from my Dad, but it makes me happy when they are in a good wave of wins, which usually comes with excuses to see your friends and sit down at a bar.

Do you have a match day ritual when watching?

I don’t wear the same shirt twice if I saw the team losing while I was wearing it.

Is there a pitch in the city that means something to you?

Maracanã is the most famous. It means something for everyone; most of the big concerts happen there, too.

Is there a spot in the city that has nothing to do with football but feels like it does to you?

The infrastructure of Aterro do Flamengo is a big collective moment on Sundays, cyclists, families, and a bunch of sports happening. A public ritual on a Sunday.

Where do you watch football if not at the stadium?

Open bars. We are aaaaalways outdoors.

The meal you’ve had most often this year

Mushroom croquettes at Isca Bar, Glória.

A spot that gathers the right crowd?

Deja Vu in Glória; artists, good talks, a big celebration of creativity. After a while, you know people who are going to be there every weekend.

A space that has nothing to do with football but matters to you?

Livraria Travessa, a bookshop in Botafogo, they have a playlist that will always romanticise your life.

The newest place in the city that’s actually good?

Destilaria Maravilha, coolest structure in the coolest street.

The place that’s been there forever and still earns it?

Bar da Bambina; pool tables & drunk people on karaoke.

Where in the world for one match?

Italy, any match, the nonnas and nonnos are so good to watch.


The best advice for a football fan visiting Rio for the first time?

If you can’t find tickets to a match go to a street that has several bars, you will see football carnival.

A top insider tip that every visitor needs to know about?

Learn a bit of Portuguese just to understand what the vendors scream at the beach; it’s hilarious.

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